The Bohemian Södermalm District of Stockholm (2024)

The Södermalm District of Stockholm, Sweden.Stockholm is made up of 14 islands (as well as the mainland) and each of these islands and districts has its own special feel and ambiance. The stately Östermalm, up-and-coming Kungsholmen, leafy Djurgården and the commercial district of Norrmalm are some examples. Then there is Södermalm, or just “Söder” (south in Swedish), which is the largest of the islands. The feel here is laid-back, funky and bohemian. Celebrated as the home of the city’s hipsters and having a large LGBT population, Södermalm has often been called Stockholm’s version of Brooklyn or Shoreditch. I think many major cities in the world these days would have a district that they refer to as their “Brooklyn”.

Stockholm was founded on the island of Gamla Stan – today’s historic centre of the city. Södermalm was one of the first islands to be populated when Stockholm expanded beyond Gamla Stan. At first, much of the island remained rural, but during the Industrial Age the population grew significantly and this area became home to mainly the working class. The gentrification of Södermalm started in the early 1900’s and soon the island became a popular settlement for Stockholm’s artists and new middle class. In the 1990’s, the area’s hip factor rose exponentially to the point that in 2014 Vogue Magazine named Södermalm as one of the 15 coolest neighborhoods in the world and the Financial Times named it as one the top destinations of the year. Södermalm also featured prominently in the Stockholm edition of Travels by Adam’s popular Hipster Guide series.

So what is all the fuss about? Besides being the location of Hotel Rival, Södermalm does ooze a certain sense of effortlessness and nonchalance. The district has retained its historic working class feel and boasts some beautiful 18^th and 19^th century architecture. Södermalm also has a lot of green spaces, such as the parks at Skinnarviksberget (with great views of the city) or Vita bergen (popular with picnickers). The forested island of Långholmen, just adjacent to Södermalm, has some great beaches and places to rent kayaks in the summer. Feel like taking a jog? You can walk/jog/bike along the water for almost the entire coast of the island. The path is well marked and is 11 kilometers long should you choose to run the entire length.

Culture is also well exemplified in this area with attractions such as the Swedish museum of photography Fotografiska and theatres like Södra teatern and Folkoperan. I would venture to say that one of the main reasons for Södermalm’s popularity in recent years is through literature. Stieg Larsson’s world famous Millennium series, “the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo”, take place mostly on the streets of Södermalm. Since Larsson used real places in the settings of his books, Millennium fans can actually visit Mikael Blomkvist’s apartment on Bellmansgatan (around the corner from the Hotel Rival) or Lisbeth Salander’s favorite bar Kvarnen. There are even Millennium walking tours available during the summer months.

Probably the biggest reason for Södermalm’s popularity these days is the multiple pursuit of shopping, food and drink. Södermalm is the go-to destination in Stockholm to shop for funkier fashion and stylish interior goods with great stores like Grandpa, Papercut, Blås & Knåda, Efva Attling, Coctail Deluxe, Beyond Retro, Acne, Nitty Gritty and Cheap Monday. Most of the shops are located in the Mariatorget and SoFo (“south of Folkungagatan”) neighbourhoods of Södermalm. Here you can also discover a plethora of restaurants, bars and cafés. In certain areas, you will find a café on every corner, all catering to a favorite Swedish pastime: fika. The Telegraph recently named Johan & Nyström one of the world’s best coffee shops. Coincidentally, this café is just around the corner from the Hotel Rival. There are countless restaurants in Sodermalm representing all budgets and cuisines and some of my personal favourite are Nook, WoodStockholm, Punk Royale, Lineage 10, Paradiso, Urban Deli and Nytorget 6 just to name a few. For a culinary adventure, why not visit the weekend flea market at Horntulls strand and check out their popular food trucks? Or perhaps take a walking food tour to experience the local flavours of Södermalm?

On your next trip to Stockholm, be sure to visit Södermalm and take time to enjoy the shops, restaurants, museums, or simply just stroll the streets and soak up the atmosphere of this fascinating neighbourhood.