If you want to learn to rug hook, I have kits available!
Shop Rug Hooking Kits
how to be the best rug hooker you can be
Place your linen onto your frame or hoop*. Pull the linen tight like a drum so that the pattern is centered.
*There are frames made specifically for rug hooking that are available at specialty shops or you can find them on Etsy by searching for rug hooking frame.
*Frames made for rug hooking can be fairly expensive so a more affordable alternative is to use an embroidery hoop, or make or find a simple wooden frame, and stretch your cloth using thumb tacks. Or if you want something that will make your hooking a bit easier on your neck, you can DIY your own rug hooking lap frame, I’ve linked some instructions below.
*Here are some links for DIY rug hooking frames: SIMPLE LAP FRAME , PVC PIPE FRAME
*If you live in the Atlantic provinces or the Eastern US I would also suggest checking your online buy and sell pages, as I regularly come across rug hooking frames for sale at a discount here in Nova Scotia!
* Some rug hookers prefer to not use a frame and hook into their fabric without this structure! I find that the frame makes hooking much easier, but feel free to try it out without and see what you prefer!
With your non-dominant hand take a strip of yarn* and hold it under your linen. With your dominant hand, hold your hook like you would a pencil. Push your hook through the linen, place the yarn through the hooked end, and pull the end of the yarn up through the linen.
*Pre-cut your yarn into strips. The length is ultimately up to you but I prefer to cut my yarn into strips that are approximately 15- 20 cm long.
Repeat this motion and pull the yarn through the linen to create a loop of yarn. Your loop should be 1/4-1/3 of an inch high*.
*To adjust the height of your loop: gently pull on the loop with your hook to make taller OR gently pull on the tail end of the yarn under the linen to make the loop shorter
*The most important factor in the height of the loops is not that they are this height exactly, but that they are as consistent as possible (ensuring that the surface of your rug will look consistent.)
Continue making loops* filling the appropriate part of the pattern with the yarn (think of a paint by numbers.)
HOT TIPS:
Always start with the smallest details.
Work from one side to the other, OR centre to outside.
Hook every other opening in the linen.
*Some hookers prefer to hook in straight horizontal or vertical lines, OR you can work along the curves of the design.
When you are near the end of your strand of yarn (~1 inch left), or when you have reached the end of your row, pull the end through the front of the linen and cut the ends of the yarn even with the loops.
Continue steps 2-5, filling in the pattern with the appropriate colours. Keep your rows tight, but not so close that the yarn overlaps in the back*. With this weight of yarn (2 ply wool), skipping approximately one opening in the linen between loops/rows is good.
*The friction of the wool will hold the final piece together, but if the yarn is overlapping in the back your final piece will be bulky and more likely to unravel over time.
Whip Stitching
Cut around the edge of finished design, leaving approximately 1-2 inches of linen (the linen will unravel so be careful to not pull any loose ends.)
With the front of the design facing down, roll the edge of the fabric toward the edge of the design. Insert the needle from the bottom (along the edge of the hooked design) and wrap around the rolled edge.
Reinsert the needle from the bottom, moving to one side. I find it easier to whip stitch of the edge is rolled all the way around so I usually skip a few centimeters and go all the way around the edge of the design, before fulling filling in my edge.
When the edge is fully rolled and stitched, return to beginning and stitch so that the yarn is touching and linen is fully covered in yarn.
When finished your edge will likely be a bit wavy and uneven looking, don’t worry! Take your design and place it on a flat surface with a towel and spray with water until damp. Use your fingers to manipulate the edge to lay totally flat. Let your piece dry overnight.
If you want to hang on a wall, attach d-rings to the stitched edge.
Enjoy!
*If you are a visual learner I suggest looking up rug whip stitching on youtube as there are many great tutorials available. There are also a few different ways to go about whip stitching your edge so don’t fret if their instructions are different than mine (many rug hookers will use a cord or rope along their edge which can make the process a bit easier), do whatever makes the most sense to you! (I will be making my own video very soon as well!)
Sew Into Cushion
(for large projects only)
Cut around finished hooked design, leaving about 1-2 inches of linen.
Serge, or zig-zag stitch around edge. This linen unravels easily so do not skip this step or your cushion edge may unravel in the future.
Pin backing fabric of choice onto hooked design, right sides facing.
Sew around edges leaving opening to be able to turn right side out and stuff. (If you want there to be no gap between hooked edge and backing, use a zipper foot.)
Gently turn right side out.
Stuff inside of cushion (I like to use yarn scraps, or polyfill from a fabric shop will work great.)
Sew opening shut (by hand or with machine.)
Enjoy!
