I stayed in a $2,248 a night room at 'The White Lotus' hotel in Sicily, and although it was the most beautiful place I've ever visited, it wasn't worth the price tag (2024)

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I stayed overnight at "The White Lotus" hotel in Sicily, and it was the most expensive establishment I've ever set foot in.

In April, I traveled from my home in Scotland, UK, to Taormina, Sicily, Italy to stay at San Domenico Palace, a Four Seasons Hotel, where the second season of HBO's "The White Lotus" was filmed in 2022.

I stayed in a sea-view room with a terrace, which cost $2,248, or around €2,047, for one night and the price included breakfast.

It was certainly the most expensive hotel I'd ever stayed in, and I wondered if it would live up to the splendor and beauty that was portrayed on the show.

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I was excited to see parts of the hotel I'd grown accustomed to seeing on screen, such as the infinity pool and the piano bar.

Not only was the second season of the show filmed at the hotel, but the cast and crew also lived there while filming between January and March 2022, the hotel manager, Lorenzo Maraviglia, told me during an interview after my visit.

I was excited to see parts of the hotel that were shown in the series, including the infinity pool that overlooked the sea, the piano bar and restaurant, and the gorgeous views of Taormina and Mount Etna.

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The hotel dates back to 1896 and has welcomed many famous faces over the years.

The hotel was originally a monastery that dated back to the 14th century before being transformed into a hotel in 1896, a spokesperson for San Domenico Palace told me during my visit.

It welcomed many famous faces before the cast of "The White Lotus" ever stepped inside the building, including Oscar Wilde, King Edward VIII, and Elizabeth Taylor, according to the hotel website.

Four Seasons took over the management of the hotel in 2021, the spokesperson confirmed.

The hotel is located in Taormina, a picturesque town on the east coast of Sicily, Italy.

Taormina is a hillside town that is known for its breathtaking scenery, medieval streets, and tourist attractions including Isola Bella, a nature reserve and small island that Daphne and Ethan visit in the show.

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But unlike the characters in the show, I didn't arrive at the hotel by boat. In real life, there is no private beach and the beaches in Taormina are extremely rocky.

The second season of "The White Lotus" opens with guests arriving at the hotel's private beach via boat — but in reality, it doesn't exist.

In fact, none of the beach scenes were filmed in Taormina because the beaches there are too rocky, series producer Dave Bernad said in an interview with Condé Nast Traveler. Instead, they were filmed at Cefalu in the northwest of Sicily, he said.

Fun tip: if you are looking for a hotel with a private beach in Taormina, check out Unahotels Capotaormina, which has a small private beach and infinity pool. I stayed there later in my trip; it was less expensive than San Domenico Palace and there was also an amazing view of the sea from my room.

The bus journey from Catania to Taormina was spectacular.

I flew from London to Catania Airport, and from there I took a bus to Taormina. The bus journey took around an hour, and when we arrived in Taormina the bus traveled on a winding road on a hill that had fantastic views of the sea below.

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After arriving at Taormina's bus terminal in the town center, I took a taxi to the hotel which was less than 10 minutes away.

As soon as I stepped out of the taxi, a concierge was in front of me and welcoming me to the hotel. He asked if I needed help with my bags, which I declined because I only had a backpack, and he then guided me toward the entrance.

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I was immediately impressed with the good customer service.

My first impression of the hotel lobby was that it looked exactly the same as it did in the show. There were the same red chairs, the same reception desk, and the magnificent chandeliers.

I was given a complimentary sparkling orange drink while I filled out some paperwork, and I immediately noticed how friendly and accommodating the staff was. They asked several times if they could take my bag, even after I said I could manage it on my own.

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I was then shown to my sea-view terrace room.

My room came with a king-sized bed, a TV, a table with treats, a closet, a bathroom with a shower, and a terrace balcony with stunning views of the sea.

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My favorite part of the room was the terrace.

The terrace had a sofa, a table with two seats, and a large balcony with spectacular views of the palm trees and the sea below. It was truly the most beautiful view I've ever had from a hotel room.

The terrace also had screen doors with curtains, and there was a button that could be used to close the curtains. I couldn't bring myself to close them until the evening, of course, when it was too dark to see anything outside.

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The decor completed the room.

There were flowers on the table and a painting on the wall, which I felt brought the room together. The pink throw pillow on the armchair also added a nice pop of color to the room.

On the table, there was a selection of complimentary treats that had been left by the hotel's PR team.

There was a bowl of fruit, a bottle of sparkling wine, water, and a book about Taormina, which was accompanied by a note from the PR team.

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And there were even more treats on the cabinet under the TV.

There were complimentary chocolate treats that were designed in the shape of the Teatro Greco, the ancient theatre in Taormina, according to a note that was left by the hotel. These treats appear to be given to all hotel guests.

Instead of a traditional mini fridge, there was a gigantic closet with water, a coffee machine, and a selection of tea.

At first, I didn't realize that there were additional treats as it appeared to be a regular closet from the outside. But on the inside, there was space to hang clothes as well as a small table and multiple drawers. Some were empty, while others had a selection of teas and coffee.

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The bathroom was spacious, clean, and modern.

The bathroom had marble walls and a sink, a mirror, a shower, a toilet, and a bidet. There were plenty of towels and two robes hanging on the door when I arrived. Overall, I was impressed by how large the space was, as well as how polished and modern the bathroom looked.

Afterward, it was time to explore the rest of the hotel.

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The ancient artwork made it feel more like a museum than a hotel.

The lounges in the hotel were decorated with a variety of plants and ancient paintings, giving it an opulent and traditional feel.

During my interview with the hotel manager after my stay, he told me that most of the artwork displayed is from the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries, and the staff often refer to it as a "museum hotel."

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Aside from breakfast, access to the gym and outdoor pool were the only other major perks included in my $2,248 stay.

I didn't end up using the gym, as I was at the hotel for less than 24 hours. But I thought it was a great facility, especially for guests who are staying at the hotel for longer periods.

It surprised me that the gym and pool were the only two major facilities included in the price of the hotel, considering how expensive it is.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciated that complimentary treats in my hotel room and bar snacks were also included in the price, but I didn't consider them worth $2,248.

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The hotel also has a spa.

I didn't use the spa, but the hotel staff were kind enough to allow me to take photos of one of the treatment rooms during my visit.

Prices vary depending on what treatment you get; for example, an aromatherapy massage and hyaluronic facial lifting treatment costs €480, or around $520, and a stone treatment massage costs between €250 and €270, which is approximately between $270 and $295, according to the website.

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Then, it was time for some browsing at the hotel's jewelry store, where guests spend thousands — and sometimes millions — of euros on souvenirs.

The jewelry store had items from various luxury brands, including a gold choker necklace made from more than 1,000 natural diamonds, which cost €1.5 million, or around $1.6 million, the store assistant told me during my visit.

The store assistant added that most guests who visit the store spend an average of €8,000, or around $8,700.

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There are less expensive items too, but you will still need a couple of hundred euros worth of spending money.

The store assistant told me that some of the lowest-priced items are between €400 and €500, which is around $430 to $540.

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Next, it was time to visit Bar and Chiostro, the iconic piano bar where I had booked a table for dinner.

There was nobody playing the piano when I visited, and when I asked a member of staff about it, they informed me that the pianist was off sick for the evening and there was no other form of entertainment within the hotel. But I was welcome to give the piano a try if I wanted, they added.

I declined, as sadly I'm not musically gifted. But it was nice to know the option is there for guests. I couldn't help thinking about "The White Lotus," when Mia had to beg for an opportunity to play.

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I was seated at a table with a window view.

I ordered a Lover co*cktail, which consisted of gin, banana, strawberries, vanilla, coconut water, milk, and lemon, and cost €24, or around $26. When the drink arrived at the table, I was also given a selection of complimentary snacks, including chips, nuts, olives, and breadsticks.

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As it was my first time in Italy, I knew that I had to try the pasta.

I ordered the spaghetti with tomato sauce and basil, which cost €26, or around $28. It came in a small portion, but it was utterly delicious. Both the pasta and the ingredients tasted fresh.

The servers were kind and chatty. To my surprise, one server I spoke to said he had never watched "The White Lotus," while another told me he had, and had been working at the hotel while they filmed. He added that all of the cast and crew were extremely friendly, but Will Sharpe (who plays Ethan) made the biggest impression as the actor was "very kind."

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The next morning, I started the day with the breakfast buffet at the hotel's main restaurant, which was also featured in the show.

Breakfast was served at Principe Cerami, the hotel's main restaurant which is Michelin starred and was shown in "The White Lotus." The restaurant also serves dinner, but that was completely booked up when I visited in April as it's also open to non-hotel guests.

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I felt like a character from "The White Lotus" as I made my way to my table in the outdoor section of the restaurant.

It felt surreal to eat breakfast at the same spot where the characters in the series dined every morning, as it looked exactly the same in real life.

Most of the hotel and its features were kept the same during filming, and even the uniforms for the show's actors playing the staff were provided by the hotel, the manager told me during our interview.

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My table had fantastic views of the sea and the hotel's garden.

Once again, the customer service was impressive, as the staff pulled out my chair and also brought over a stool for me to place my tote bag rather than leaving it on the ground.

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The restaurant offered an à la carte menu and a buffet, and I opted for the buffet.

The buffet was scattered throughout the indoor section of the restaurant and the piano bar. There were countless options, including fresh fruit, pastries, meats and cheese, cakes, and tarts.

There was also the option to order hot food from the restaurant, such as pancakes, waffles, french toast, eggs, porridge, and bruschetta.

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Inspired by Aubrey Plaza, I ordered a cannoli.

One staff member I spoke to at the restaurant told me that the cast of "The White Lotus" loved the cannolis, which is something Aubrey Plaza (who plays Harper) spoke about during an interview with USA Today in 2022.

"Well, we ate a lot of cannolis," she said. "Umm. Like, hundreds of cannolis, every kind of cannoli. Seriously. I mean, the food was just the best."

I asked the chef for a pistachio cannoli, and I was surprised when she used a piping bag to add the filling for me, as I assumed the filling would have been added in advance. This method is better as it likely avoids waste.

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In addition to my cannoli, I had a bowl of strawberries, a vanilla pastry, blood-orange juice, and a cup of tea.

Later that day, I met a member of staff who said she'd also worked at the hotel while the show was being filmed. She told me that Jennifer Coolidge (who plays Tanya) started every morning with toasted bread and olive oil for breakfast, with hot water and lemon to drink.

A part of me was disappointed I didn't find this out until after I'd already had breakfast, as it would have been fun to order the exact same thing as my favorite character.

But on second thought, I was shocked that Coolidge ordered something so plain. I don't think I would have wanted to swap out my meal for a piece of toast, as the fruit and pastries tasted fresh and delicious.

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Midway through my meal, a server arrived with a complimentary plate of pancakes, crêpes, and waffles, with a tiny "welcome" sign on top.

The sweet treats were covered in chocolate, vanilla, and caramel sauce, and there was so much that I couldn't finish it.

After breakfast, I explored the outdoor grounds of the hotel, including the garden and infinity pool.

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One thing I loved about the hotel — and Taormina — is that there seemed to be flowers everywhere.

There weren't just flowers in the garden, but they were growing on the exterior walls of the hotel.

Later, while exploring Taormina, I noticed there were wildflowers everywhere, giving the town a romantic feel.

The garden has around 40 different types of citrus, according to a hotel spokesperson.

"In Sicily, you can't call it a garden if you don't have citrus, so we put 40 varieties just to be sure," the spokesperson for San Domenico Palace told me during my visit.

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Then I made it to the infinity pool, one of the things I was most looking forward to.

The weather had turned a little gloomy by this point in the afternoon, but that didn't deter me from heading to the sun loungers.

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There was only one other person in the pool when I arrived.

There's no booking system for the sun loungers, a spokesperson for the hotel informed me during my visit. I felt lucky, as I was only one of two people at the pool area so I managed to get a sun lounger directly across from the pool.

Upon my arrival, a member of staff brought me a cool bag that had complimentary water inside. It was a lovely gesture, but I didn't need it as the weather wasn't so warm (which also likely explains why there weren't many people out).

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The pool was pretty cold, but I loved it.

I couldn't go to the real "White Lotus" without taking a dip in the infinity pool. Although a staff member told me it was heated, it felt pretty cold to me which wasn't great considering the weather was on the cooler side too.

But even still, I had an amazing time as it was my first time swimming in an infinity pool.

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My favorite thing about San Domenico Palace was the surrounding natural scenery that you can see from the hotel.

The hotel had fantastic views of Mount Etna, an active volcano that's located between Messina and Catania in Sicily.

I was awestruck by the natural scenery that I witnessed at the hotel. But later, after checking out of the hotel and exploring Taormina, I found that there were plenty of other locations in the town where you could see the same scenery for free due to the fact that the town is located on a hill.

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At lunchtime, I visited Anciovi, the poolside restaurant that was also featured in the show.

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, and while it's known for seafood, there's also a wide selection of pizza, pasta, and desserts on the menu.

The Anciovi restaurant was also used to film scenes in the show.

A staff member told me the Anciovi restaurant was used to film scenes in "The White Lotus," but the food used in the scenes was provided by the hotel's other two restaurants as Anciovi wasn't operating at that time.

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I was seated close to the bar for lunch.

I had booked a table for 1 p.m. when the restaurant opened, but the staff allowed me to sit down when I arrived 10 minutes early. A server asked me if I required a pashmina because of the chilly weather, which I have never been offered in a restaurant before.

It was a lovely gesture, but I declined as I was wearing a cardigan.

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I ordered pasta alla norma, a classic Sicilian dish.

I was excited to try pasta alla norma, a classic Sicilian dish that many cast members enjoyed while filming the show, my server informed me. Adam DiMarco, who plays Albie, told W Magazine that he enjoyed the dish, although he mentioned having it at the nearby restaurant Médousa, rather than at the hotel.

The dish cost €36, or around $39, and consisted of rigatoni pasta, eggplant that was fried and blended into a sauce, yellow tomatoes, and ricotta cheese, which was served with a basket of bread. It tasted amazing, and the texture was smooth and creamy.

However, I'd caution anyone looking to order this dish in Sicily to double-check with the restaurant how it's made, as all restaurants will prepare it differently. Later in my trip, I ordered the pasta at a restaurant in Catania, and instead of the eggplant being blended into the sauce, it was fried and cut into strips, and placed on top of the pasta. Personally, I didn't enjoy it as the texture was rather slimy, as opposed to the smooth texture of the blended eggplant.

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Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to San Domenico Palace, but I didn't think it was worth thousands of dollars.

Ultimately, it was the most beautiful and luxurious hotel I've ever stayed in. And although I had a fantastic experience, I doubt I could ever justify spending that much money on a hotel room on a personal vacation.

The highlights of my stay were the scenery and the food, two things that I could have experienced without paying $2,248, especially as the hotel's restaurants and bar are available for non-hotel guests to book.

If I ever visit Taormina again, I know I'll be able to experience the spectacular town from a more affordable hotel. I'll likely return to San Domenico Palace for dinner — but not an overnight stay.