How to Sew a Seam (2024)

Introduction: How to Sew a Seam

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Step 1: What You'll Need:

For this project, you'll need fabric (I'm using 3x5 pieces of muslin for this - the perfect size for practicing), pins, thread and scissors.

If sewing by hand, you'll need:

sewing needles
beeswax (optional but awesome if hand sewing!)

If sewing by machine you'll need:

Step 2: About Pinning

Everyone has their own preference - but I prefer to pin vertically instead of horizontally, especially for machine sewing! (And that's only when I pin - I mostly pin during my instructables to make things look organized, otherwise I run wild with no pinning. It's faster!)

Sewing over pins is dangerous to boot and can break your needle, so you have to pull them out as you go. I like to zip along so pinning vertically is the way to go for me.

Also, when sewing on a machine, always points the tips of the pins toward you - this will save you stabbing yourself in the hands.

Step 3: Sewing a Seam on a Machine

The key to a strong seam is backstitching! It's always important to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Backstitching on a machine is the equivalent of tying a knot while hand sewing - it locks the stitches in place. Without it, the seam can open up. This happens especially fast if the seam will be under any stress - for example, turning a project right side out after sewing.

Here are my steps to sewing on a machine:

pin your fabric right sides together
insert the fabric under the needle so your seam allowance is correct and the edge of the fabric is 1/4 inch past the needle and pull the threads to the back of the machine
use the hand wheel to move the needle down into the fabric
backstitch to the edge
sew down the seam to the opposite edge
backstitch for about 1/4 inch at the end

I've embedded a quick video of me sewing a seam, too.

Step 4: Sewing a Seam by Hand

Sewing a seam by hand is fun, but I tend to avoid it because it can be very slow going and the results (for me, at least!) are rarely as sturdy as a machine sewn seam. There are certain applications where it works great through, including small dolls and toys, delicate hems, and finishing items professionally.

Here's a list of things to remember when hand sewing:

a backstitch is more durable than a running stitch (click through to find explanations)
tie strong knots!
pin and mark the sewing line if necessary to keep your stitches straight - this is great for beginners!
the smaller and closer together your stitches are, the stronger the seam will be
beeswax is great for keeping your thread from tangling
I like to hold the fabric taut between two fingers while sewing - it takes a little practice, but allows you to move a little more quickly!

^{(This is definitely not the fanciest hand sewing I've ever done. It was ridiculously hard for me to film myself and do this! :P I typically hold the fabric up at chest level - that's a much more comfortable position.)}

Step 5: Using Beeswax

Here's a quick gif of how to use the beeswax! All you need to do is drag the thread along the top of the chunk of beeswax.

I like to do this a couple times just to make sure it's coated well, and sometimes I'll also rub the thread between my fingers to help warm up the wax.

Step 6: Comparing the Seams + Extras

As you can see, the hand sewn seam is looser by far. You can tighten it up considerably by using tinier stitches and more of them!

I like to press my seams with a steam iron after sewing because it makes them look a little neater. :) You can also clip the edges with pinking shears to stop them from fraying - I almost always do that.

Have you mastered the basic seam and want to level up in sewing? Have a look at my French seam tutorial! It's much easier than it looks, and it's a fantastic way to make clothing and accessories look and feel more finished. :D